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Bigger Picture: Boycotting Target Will Hurt Black-Owned Brands Even More
The long-term consequences could be devastating.
Last week, Target’s announcement to scale back its diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) efforts sent shockwaves through the Black beauty community. For many, the news hit like a brick—a stark reminder of how quickly corporate America’s so-called commitments can unravel. In the wake of this decision, calls to boycott the retail giant have emerged, but there’s an often-overlooked reality that deserves urgent attention: boycotting Target will hurt Black-owned brands even more.
[SEE ALSO: Black Beauty Execs Explain Need For Black-Owned Beauty Aisle]
The power of the Black beauty dollar is undeniable. According to a 2021 McKinsey report, Black consumers spend $6.6 billion annually on beauty products. Add in overseas purchases and general market purchases, and that figure is much closer to $500 billion. This significant market influence helped justify the political moves to increase shelf space for Black-owned brands in major retailers, including Target. Yet this success story is fragile.
For decades, Black-owned beauty brands have been fighting for visibility and equity in a system that wasn’t built for them. And for every Black-owned brand that thrives, there are countless others fighting uphill battles just to stay afloat.
Melissa Butler, founder and CEO of The Lip Bar, the largest Black-owned beauty brand in Target, recently addressed this issue on Instagram. Butler acknowledged her disappointment in Target’s rollback, but added an important nuance.
“In my eight years in Target, I’ve seen them kick out eight brands,” she said. “Not because they were Black, woman-owned, or Latina-owned, but because they didn’t perform.”
Retailers operate on performance metrics, and for smaller brands, failing to meet sales expectations often means losing shelf space. The challenges for Black-owned brands go deeper than simple sales figures.
Getting onto retail shelves is a Herculean effort, often requiring significant upfront investment. Some brands go bankrupt just trying to meet the demands of big-box retailers, from production minimums to marketing fees. And once they’re on the shelves, the fight isn’t over.
Black-owned brands often lack the multimillion-dollar marketing budgets that legacy brands like Unilever or Procter & Gamble have at their disposal. Instead, they rely on grassroots efforts and the loyalty of their core consumers—loyalty that a boycott could inadvertently disrupt.
There is also another layer of complexity: contractual obligations. Blaming Black-owned brands for not pulling off the shelves is unfair and unrealistic. These partnerships are often legally binding, making it nearly impossible for brands to “walk away” from a retailer, even if they’re disappointed in its policies.
This is where the power of the Black consumer—and the Black beauty dollar—becomes both a blessing and a burden. And, yes, boycotting Target might feel like the right move in the moment, but the long-term consequences could be devastating for the very Black-owned brands consumers aim to support.
As Butler explained, “By not shopping in these stores, you are also impacting the hundreds of Black-owned businesses and women-owned businesses that are in these stores. It’s a really sh*tty situation to be in.”
The hard truth is that corporate backtracking on DEI initiatives harms Black-owned brands in more ways than one. Not only does it limit their already precarious shelf space, but it also sends a damaging signal about their value in the marketplace.
Let’s be real. Black-owned brands aren’t just for Black consumers. While many of these brands are created with a melanin-first approach, their products often work for everyone—and in many cases, better than legacy brands. Whether it’s skincare designed to treat hyperpigmentation or haircare that targets textured hair, these products address specific needs while delivering high-quality results that appeal to a diverse range of customers. The idea that Black-owned brands can’t cross racial or cultural lines is a misconception that only limits their growth potential.
So what do we do? First, it’s essential to continue supporting Black-owned brands, whether they’re in Target, Walmart, or independent retailers. As consumers, we wield immense power through our dollars, and directing that power toward these brands can help them weather uncertain times. For some, it means buying everything off the shelves now. For others, it’s dedicating a certain amount of dollars each month.
Truth is, this is not a new conversation. While retailers like Target have been creating opportunities for Black-owned brands for the past decade (remember SheaMoisture’s beauty aisle campaign), Black-owned brands have long had to fight to stay on the shelves. Not just due to lack of investment, but lack of support. Before 2020, we couldn’t get many brands to stand on business as being Black-owned.
While George Floyd’s murder led to a nationwide racial reckoning and reawakening to support our own, other news of being disrespected in nail salons and non-Black-owned beauty supplies have led to similar store boycotts (that many will forget in the coming days). Support of Black-owned brands ebbs and flows with viral atrocities.
“Every couple of years, I feel like we go through something where everybody’s like, we’re shopping Black,” said Frankesha Watkins, owner of Dallas’ B Polished Beauty Supply. “Where’s the Black beauty supply stores? Where’s the Black clothing labels? Where’s the Black, you know, everything? Like, Black, Black, Black, right? But you know what I find disheartening the most? After a couple of months, it’s back to the regular scheduled program. That same energy that we were having, like it disappears.”
So, once we have committed to supporting these brands, ongoing advocacy becomes crucial. Holding corporations accountable for their commitments—or lack thereof—requires consistent pressure from consumers and stakeholders. Holding ourselves accountable for supporting them also requires consistent pressure.
So, instead of pulling ALL of our dollars from the bullseye, we should focus on wielding them strategically— and investing in the brands that have always invested in us.
Stephenetta Harmon is a Black beauty editor, curator, and digital media and communications expert who builds platforms to celebrate the power, impact, and business of Black beauty. Prior to founding Sadiaa Black Beauty Guide, she served as editor-in-chief for the MN Spokesman-Recorder and digital media director for Hype Hair. Find her at stephenetta.com.