Discovering gems of Black hair history can be an exciting journey — especially when it’s tied to some of our favorite music moments. Case in point: celeb hairstylist and custom wig maker Eugene Davis who was the hairstylist behind the iconic looks for Lil’ Kim legendary “Crush on You” video.
In the latest edition of Twin Nation’s IG series, “Hair Talk,” I talked to Davis firsthand about his impact on hairstyling and innovation.
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Davis got his start in Bloomingdale’s in New York , working as a trimmer. He noticed that the wigs on the mannequins didn’t match up with the clothes, so he would go to the back room, cut and style them, then replace the wigs on the floor. His then manager soon noticed that he was making the changes and encouraged him to go to school for hair. “I went home to talk to my mother about my interest in attending cosmetology school,” Davis said. “‘If that’s your passion,’ she said, ‘then embrace your creativity. You can go.'”
He said he applied, received a scholarship and participated in a creativity competition at his school, which awarded government grants to winners. Davis won the competition and hasn’t had to repay any student loans since.
Davis’ first big styling break was for 90’s singer Adina Howard. Davis worked in a hair salon adjacent to the owners of popular ‘90s streetwear brand Mecca, one of whom was Howard’s manager. When the Mecca team learned of Davis’ skills, they suggested collaborating with him. Eugene was tasked with cutting Howard’s for her upcoming album release, “Freak Like Me.” Eugene recalled, “I styled her hair, and that look became the album cover.”
The next big moment was with Lil’ Kim. He used the same matching technique that launched his hairstyling career to create the looks for the video. “Lil’ Kim would be switching out different colors of clothes, and I thought that it would be amazing if her hair did it, too,” said Davis. “Nothing like this had been done before, especially with Black women and colored hair.”
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When asked about Lil’ Kim’s initial reaction when planning the looks, Davis said, “she wasn’t in the room when we were talking about the concept. He added, “She trusted her team.”
Davis didn’t just focus on color for the looks, either. To achieve the edgy looks, he used a razor to cut and style the wigs. “Lil’ Kim saw them and she loved it!,” he said.
That video not only left a mark in hair history but also served as a catalyst for his career. He went on to work with such celebs as Eartha Kitt, Mary J Blige, Queen Latifah, Sanaa Lathan, and Lianne La Havas. And, through his hair travels, he observed a lack of regulations or standards for textured hair in certain areas. “Places like North London, East London, just saw areas that have a lot of migration from Africa, the West Indies. The standard just wasn’t there.”
Those experiences inspired him to become an advocate for hairstylists. He collaborated with Shelley Line, a hairstylist and fellow textured hair advocate. Together, they approached the City and Guilds, the board responsible for hair licensing, in an effort to reform the standards regarding textured hair.
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Engaging with top stylists in the area and highlighting the increasing demand for textured hair services (and missed financial opportunities), the two developed a curriculum approved by the board. Davis and Line also designed the cover of the City and Guilds Textbook “Level 2 Diploma iHairdressing and Barbering”, showcasing the diverse forms of Black hair and bodies.
Alicia Wilson is a lover of all things Black hair and founder of the weekly IG live series “Hair Talk.” Be sure to follow her at TwinNation15 to watch more Hair Talk live chats focused on Black hair pioneers and the people who are helping to break down myths and misconceptions about Black hair.