Activist or Advocate: What Side Of The Natural Hair Movement Are You On?

The natural hair movement — or as I call it, revolution — is evolving, with a new wave of people attempting to enact change. Surprisingly, there is significant disagreement about how the revolution should proceed. Some are pushing their own agendas instead of moving the needle forward, while others are compromising so much that they are losing sight of their goals. 

As we strive to correct the wrongs of the beauty industry, it’s crucial to understand the distinct roles that activists and advocates play in achieving real change. The first step is recognizing the difference between the two—and determining which category you fall under when engaging with the revolution.

Are you an activist or an advocate? 

Activist

An activist, by definition, is someone who emphasizes direct, vigorous action, especially in support of or opposition to a controversial issue. Within the revolution, this could mean someone solely focused on Black people wearing their natural hair, opposing licensing for natural hair care, or rejecting the inclusion of natural hair education in cosmetology schools. In some cases, activists may not even be open to modern-day conversations about the subject, as they see it as a cultural issue. This, however, is a topic for another day.

While there is nothing inherently wrong with being an activist, it’s important to understand how concentrated they can be on specific aspects of a movement. For example, a young Malcolm X was pro-Black, supportive of Black economics, and strongly against integration. He even criticized his peers, calling them “stooges” of the White establishment. Despite his significant impact on the confidence and growth of the Black community during the Civils Rights era, Malcolm X initially wanted no part of integration.

This approach can sometimes come off as aggressive. But, let’s not forget that natural hair has historically not been respected — whether from external forces or even within the natural community. This raises a question: Is the natural hair community becoming the new bullies? I ask this because many who choose not to go natural or who express struggles with being natural may be frowned upon. 

Many women turn to the natural hair community seeking freedom — the freedom to express themselves and their version of being natural. However, over the past five years, new categories of what is considered natural have emerged, and old standards from the chemical hair world are starting to “poison” the natural hair industry. Despite these struggles, the natural hair revolution is becoming stronger, with more people organizing, giving hope for a better future in the coming decades. 

Advocate

An advocate, by definition, supports or promotes the interests of a cause or group. Advocates are open-minded and put the community’s best interests before their ideology. They typically support the idea of natural hair licensing and incorporating natural hair programs in cosmetology schools. Advocates believe that for natural hair to be respected globally, education and legislative changes are necessary.

An example of an advocate is Medgar Evers, who served as the NAACP’s first field secretary in Mississippi. He organized protests and voter registration drives, recruited new workers into the civil rights movement, and pushed for school integration. Evers focused on moving the needle forward and finding solutions to common problems faced by Black citizens. His approach helped create an inviting atmosphere of acceptance. In the same vein, when the natural hair revolution began, the main goal was for Black people to be accepted for their authentic selves, whether they chose to wear their natural hair or use chemicals, preserving the option for originality.

When reflecting on these roles, one could argue that being an activist is the initial stage of becoming an advocate. Activism is often based on personal experience, while advocacy is based on the experiences of others. 

The natural hair revolution needs people who are committed to working toward the community’s best interests. It needs people willing to listen to all perspectives of every Black experience, compromising when necessary, and finding solutions. 

For the revolution to truly succeed, both activists and advocates must unite, harnessing their collective strength to drive meaningful change and ensure the freedom and acceptance of natural hair for all. Together, they can transform the movement into a powerful force for cultural pride and societal progress.